2014/06/11

今天 我遇上了露體狂 (上集)

事情是這樣的。

終於,來到印度聞名已久的遺跡景點Hampi。這片遺跡足足有26平方公里,昨天徒步走到住宿附近最集中的景點,今天,按著旅遊書的建議,租用了腳踏單去拜訪較遠處的遺跡。

這片荒涼的遺址,也許是面積真的太大,加上現在是淡季的原因,很多時候我都發現四周無人,我,像是哥倫布一樣,一個人不斷發現一片又一片的新大陸。

跟慣常一樣,每每見到感動的畫面,都會放好腳架幫自己自拍留念。來到一個風景怡人的地方,有遺址建築、椰林樹影,加上前面擺放好的腳踏車,簡直就是一幅天衣無縫的構圖。當我正準備把自己放入這張明信片的時候,遠處有一個年輕人向我走過來。他,就十多歲不到廿歲的年紀吧,他很好奇我在幹甚麼。不過,我的習慣,若果有人看著我自拍的話我會讓他們先離開才繼續。可是,這個年輕人,就站在我身後不肯離開。我,不知那裏來的怒氣,重複又重複的叫他離開,他,會說簡單的英語,好像想表示他只是想看我拍照而已。那一刻的我,也不明白為甚麼自己牌氣會那麼大,就是一位年輕人吧,也許是來自附近鄉郊的,也許是從來沒有見過數碼相機罷了,我,為甚麼會勃然大怒呢?那一刻,內心還在自責自己為甚麼會那麼大反應。

糾纏了五分鐘,叫他離去他只是往後踏後幾步,我調教相機鏡頭他又再次走到我身後看。我不斷用手勢加大聲叫他快走開,他,竟然走到我的腳踏車前,想我幫他拍照!我叫他走開,用動作表示不要阻礙我拍照。最後,他仍是站在附近,我只好不理會他繼續自拍。由於我的自拍是不望鏡頭的,他,竟然在我相機倒數期間走近我的相機,還跟我說照片拍好了。我很不耐煩,大聲駡了他一句None of Your Business,拿回相機便頭也不回騎上腳踏車離去了。

拐了一個彎,看見了一大片遺跡,便騎了進去打算在最盡頭的遺跡用膳。才拍好單車,正準備找一處能俯瞰整片遺跡的位置時,卻看見那個年輕人跟了上來。不過,他不是向我走來,而是走到遺跡的另一邊。我心想,也許他也是在觀光而已?但是,他竟然在遺跡旁邊小便起來?!我心中驚訝這是甚麼人呀,在自己國家的世界文化遺產旁邊小便!他一邊小便一邊回頭看我,說時遲那時快,他竟然轉身,在我面前搖動著他的JJ,然後拉上褲鏈。我,立即向他大叫,再來一次吧,我幫你拍照好不好,你不是想拍照嗎?他,也真的夠薑的,真的再次拉下褲鏈,再次搖動他的JJ,不過,他卻沒有望鏡頭,不斷左看看右看看,是怕有其他人看到?那一刻,我看見不遠處正在有人放牧。然後,他拉好褲鏈向我走過來,我,超驚,尤其怕他那骯髒的手觸碰到我。他,竟然用手放在唇邊示意我不要出聲!?當我傻的嗎,我當然立即大聲尖叫,他,才後退了幾步。我急步去拿單車,跟他說遠處有人在放牧啊,不如你再過去表演多次,他,好像是跟我說了句OK

我快速騎車到那放牧的人旁邊,原來是一對老夫婦。我用英文和指手畫腳跟他們說這個瘋子在我面前除褲露械啊,我很驚啊,不知道他們其實有沒有聽明白。然後,那年輕人走到他們旁邊,很淡定的跟那老頭子說印度語,還加上手勢,像是說是我叫他除褲給我拍照的。我大聲對那瘋子說,你有沒有父親母親啊,你這樣做不覺得羞愧嗎?他,竟然對我搖頭。

我不再理會他們,本來想獨自欣賞遺址美景吃午餐的,現在卻甚麼雅興都沒有了,但是午餐還是要照吃呀。於是,我再次走到遺跡高台,拿出我的午餐,一梳香蕉。那一刻也差點笑了出來,我那梳不知攞景還是贈慶的香蕉。我看著他們,他們也看著我,那瘋子仍然繼續跟那老頭子不斷說話,那老婦人則坐在一旁看著他們看著我。那老頭子看著我的表情,好像覺得我才是有問題的。那一刻的我,一面吃著香蕉一面向著他們指手畫腳大叫著,天啊,可以告訴我發生甚麼事情嗎?然後,我再大聲對瘋子說,放心吧,我會把照片拿給警察的。吃罷午餐,收好行裝,我再次重複一次剛才的說話,便踏著腳踏車離去,那瘋子,竟然對我雙手合十示意。

經歷了這件事情,心情久久沒有平伏下來,於是便繼續騎著腳踏車胡亂走。幸好,很快便回到了大馬路旁邊的遺跡景點,四周都是遊人和商販。我心裏想著,我會去報警的,看看警察怎麼做也好,雖然時常聽聞警察也不一定是好人。然後,我再在景點胡亂走了兩三小時,眼見差不多時間要還車了,才開始踏上歸途,向著位於旅館附近的警察局騎去。

到達警察局,門口坐著兩位警員,我簡單說了事情的經過,然後問他們,陌生男子向我露械是合法的嗎?他們說不合法,我才放心把照片給他們看,因為我怕他們會誣蔑我偷拍人家小便。不知哪裏又多來了幾位警員,他們一起圍著看照片,還邊看邊笑。我把照片藍芽傳給了其中一位警員,他叫我可以刪除自己手機的照片了。當我傻的嗎,我才不會這個時候把證據刪除。然後他說他會處理了我可以離去了,我問不用落口供的嗎,不用拿我的聯絡方法的嗎?又不知哪裏來了一個高級的,就是胖胖的有肚腩的那種,他問我來自哪裏,又看了看那照片,就給了我一張白紙叫我自己落口供。我說我不會寫啊,旁邊的警員便立即把抬頭背誦出來讓我抄寫。我把事發經過時間地點都寫了出來,然後交給那高級的警員,他竟然叫我讀給他聽?我說你不會看嗎幹麼要我讀出來?那拿了我照片的警員真的把文章朗讀出來給他聽。然後他們問我為甚麼相片沒有拍正面的,我說我當時很怕啊,不知那瘋子想對我怎麼樣啊,我都要盡快離開現場了,(我省略了我在那邊午餐沒有說)。然後他們又問幹麼相隔了四個小時才來報案,我說我要找路回來啊,怕得都不知道怎麼回來了,(又省掉了我去了繼續觀光的部分)。然後他們說,他們現在會坐電單車到那遺跡附近找那疑犯,有消息會通知我。我說,我可以一起去嗎,可以幫助認人啊,還可以找回那對老夫婦問話啊,(心中開始後悔那麼多時間吃午餐幹麼不多拍幾張照片)。可是警察說我騎的是腳踏車啊,怎麼跟得上他們呢,他們又只會騎同一部電單車。我問,若果捉到了疑犯會怎樣呢,警員說會罰款吧。我問不會坐牢嗎?他微笑著搖頭。然後他們叫我回旅館等消息就好了,便踏上了電單車絕塵而去。

現在回想整件事情,其實我從來也沒想過警察會去拘捕那瘋子的,所以我才那麼施施然地吃午餐和觀光,一點也沒有要把握時間報警的打算。我也沒想過要多拍幾張瘋子和案發現場的照片,也就是想要怎麼把事情放到網上去,文章要怎麼寫而已。也許,潛意識中已知道這裏的警察是不可信的,這裏的法律也不可靠的,做任何行動前先確保好自己的安全吧。話又說回來,也許,我應該自己去把照片沖印出來,在大街大巷張貼,讓那瘋子蒙羞可能還奏效。

今天,上了寶貴的一課,直覺,永是最可靠的。當理性還在幫瘋子講說話時,原來直覺已感應到危險了。所以做甚麼事情也好,相信自己的直覺永遠是對的。

10/06/2014

寫於Hampi旅館內

Hampi, Karnataka, India - Jun 2014

Ochivaye Dreams 8 – Dream of Retiring at 35 of a Sri Lankan 夢想專訪8 – 斯里蘭卡男生的35歲退休夢

Suresh was my very last couchsurfing host in Sri Lanka. At first I didn’t plan to stay with him as I could only stay for one night. Normally I preferred to stay for 2 as it gave me more time to interact with my host. However, some hiccups popped up, and I was glad I stayed with Suresh and gotta know him even though we only hang out for a few hours altogether. He needed to work night shift till midnight, but still he got up at 7am and did the interview with me.

Suresh told me he planned to “retire” at the age of 35. He was 28, so 7 more years to go. It sounded like an idealistic retirement plan for most people and I was so interested to know his plan in details.

Suresh explained, he planned to take a career break and go traveling at 35. At the moment he only does short trips. If he were to have early retirement, he needed to have his means sorted, so that he could have a proper traveling. After that, he could stay somewhere in Sri Lanka where he can live a healthy organic lifestyle with clean air and water, a calm place with waterfalls, thick forest, and no mobile coverage, not disturbed by anyone. He hates fast forward culture and working late. He likes the nature, hearing the birds and waterfall flowing.

What he needs to do before he could start his big trip in 35, first he needs to make sure he saves enough. At the moment he does small travels, not to expensive places though. In order to travel properly, he needs to work on and have proper earning. He has 2 thoughts at the moment, one is he can start putting up a business on his own. He will do what he knows and he feels he is capable of doing it. He spent the past 6 years working in outsourcing and trading and he has learnt lots of tricks. He could apply his knowledge in other industries. If he starts his business before 30, he will have 5 years to establish and hand over the business to somebody so that he could go on for his trip while having constant income at the same time. Another thought is continue working in the same company till 35, then he can get a very good gratuity, but after that he will have no income source.

Suresh shared there were 3 big stages in his life which affected his belief so much and made him who he is now. He started working right after college and didn’t have any gap year. His first job was a stock broker, it was an intense job and he lived a busy life. The tsunami came in 2004, he didn’t know how bad it was when he watched the news. He took on volunteering job and when he got there all he saw were ruins and dead bodies everywhere. It was a traumatic experience for him. It taught him an important lesson of what life is, no matters what we do or how much we earn, we never know when it is time to leave. Then he changed to an Event Management job which was a lot easier and his work life was not so intense.

The second stage was his mom passed away. He quitted his job again and changed to his current job when he can work nighttime, while his brother worked morning shift, so that there was always somebody at home to look after his dad.

The third stage was when Suresh started traveling alone. He went to India and Thailand. He didn’t have proper ways to see things, he just ventured. Then he started hosting and slowly found out how he wanna travel. He realized he could just live a life off his backpack.

For his big journey, he wanna travel to the Eastern part of the world, like Cambodia, Philippines, Thailand, Myanmar, etc because the West is too expensive. It will also depend how much the trip will cost, he needs to budget. He has done many
short trips in India and will finish off the rest when he starts his trip. To him, India is like a half read book. India is the first closest land to Sri Lanka, and is a big country and a world on its own. There he could meet people from countries where he never heard of. It is a good place to start his big trip and good way to learn how to travel.

Sri Lanka is a small country and he has spent his life traveled around and have seen almost all of it. His passion is burning inside he really wanna get out and see new things. He felt he is stuck in a small island and he wanna fly out. He likes to travel to the destinations by trains or buses more than planes. The moments experienced along the way are more important than the destinations. He likes to meet people and see more things, he prefers to travel day time because if he were to travel at night he could only sleep. For buses, there are only one or two people sitting next to him, trains, however, he can move around and connect with people and relax and write and do whatever he wants. He likes to travel to places with untouched nature and without phone coverage. He enjoys getting lost, and finds his way back more than taking a map along.

He hosts people through couchsurfing to remind himself not to settle down in a 8-5 job life because a lot of people are traveling which inspire him not to let the fire burn down. He just needs to have a proper plan. Through hosting travelers he could see the world through other people’s eyes. He has learnt many things even without being there. Sri Lanka is such a small island, but through travelers’ eyes, he could look at the same things in a totally different way. Sometimes when he is free he would travel with his surfers as well. So far he has hosted 25 different nationalities, to him it was like a world class buffet. Travelers all have different experience, some just started, some were used to couchsurfing, some were new in backpacking, they would just sit down and learn about each other’s culture and exchange different views. To him it was also like an educational process, to prepare himself for his dream, a training period to get ready for his big trip.

Suresh preferred to do solo travel because he can learn himself within, how tolerant, respectful, or arrogant he is. People has different thoughts, cultural or political views, if he is being confronted, then he will know how he adapt, accept or react. It is a learning process for him to discover himself. He would’t know all these until he is put under different environments where people dunno him. People will react, question, tell, explain and will make him think right or wrong. Friends always sugar-coated the speech as they do not wanna hurt him and would not put the facts out.

Suresh said he won’t use time to define how long his trip will be, may be till he feels like getting home, or when he gets sick of hostels, train travels, seeing things, always packing unpacking, saying hi bye to people.

Suresh shared his favorite quote with me, “All is well, that ends well.” from Shakespeare, meaning everything is good when it ends good. He needs to hold on at the moment to buy bullets.

Interviewing Suresh was really an inspiring experience to me. He was such a knowledgeable guy and had lots of interesting thoughts. We also shared similar thoughts towards traveling too. He told me being religious is not the same as being spiritual, which was something I never thought of. Although he was born a Hindu, he didn’t want to tag himself with a label because he believes he can get good things from every other religions. It all depends how one interprets the messages and lives by the morals.

Suresh gave me a multipurpose knife as the present in exchange. It was his first knife and had been with him for 5-6 years and went to 3 different countries with him. It traveled with him and always helped him out in emergency situations during hiking or camping. Once it was lost in a trekking journey and he decided to walk another 2 hours and went all the way back to look for it. It was a good memory for celebration after hardship as he always used it to open cans. It also has a simple theory how life should be, with so many different tools inside just like so many people in so many different ways. He hope the knife can help the next person and taped his love power, and will mean something as well.

8/6/2014
Written in a CS farm house in Mysore, India

夢想專訪8 – 斯里蘭卡男生的35歲退休夢

他生於印度教的家庭,但卻不想標籤自己,因為他相信每個宗教都有好的東西可以學到,只看人們怎樣去理解箇中的內容和有否按著教義來生活。


Suresh是我在斯里蘭卡最後一位借宿主人。本來不打算到他家借宿了,因為只能逗留一個晚上,通常我會至少住上兩晚的,起碼多點時間跟沙發主人交流。可是,人算不如天算,旅程有點阻礙,最後我還是很感恩能在他家借宿了,雖然大家只有幾個小時的交流時間。他要上夜班到零晨才下班,可是他第二天早上還是七點就起床和我做夢想專訪。

辭官 歸隱
Suresh今年28歲,卻有一個35歲退休的大計,聽起來是很多人夢寐以求的完美退休計劃啊,我也很有興趣知道他打算怎麼做,因為只剩下七個年頭而已。

他解釋很希望能在35歲的時候去一個長途旅行,然後,在斯里蘭卡某個地方安頓下來,過一種健康有機生活。清新的空氣,乾淨的水源,寧靜的地方,附近有瀑布、叢林,最重要的是沒有電話網絡,不會被人騷擾。他討厭城市快速的節奏和要捱更抵夜,他喜歡聽小鳥唱歌和瀑布流動的聲音。

要成功在35歲出發長途旅行,首先他要確保自己有足夠的積蓄,好好計劃來年和有一定的收入。他有兩個念頭,一是自己開始做生意,他只會做他懂的和有信心的事情,過去六年他在外貿工作學了很多技巧,可以把知識運用到其他行業裏,如果能三十歲前開始做生意,他將會有五年時間建立和把生意轉交別人打理,那樣他就可以出發長途旅行,還同時間有收入來源。另一個念頭是繼續在現職公司工作直至35歲,到時候拿取一筆很可觀的離職金,可以之後他再沒有收入來源了。

生命 無常
Suresh說他的生命中有三個很重要的階段成就了今天的他。他大學畢業就立即工作,沒有gap year這回事,第一份工作是當股票經紀,那是一份很繁忙的工作。2004年的海嘯,他從電視上得知情況惡劣得很,於是跑去報名當義工,但當抵達現場卻看見到處頹垣敗瓦和死傷慘重,那次悲痛的經驗讓他學會了生命的無常,就算做甚麼工作或有多少收入,永遠不知道甚麼時候自己要離開。於是,他轉工了,換了一份沒有那麼緊張的活動管理工作。

第二個階段是媽媽過身,他再次轉換工作,就是現在這份上夜班的,他哥哥上早班,所以家中永遠有人照顧爸爸。

世界 是一本百科全書
第三個階段,Suresh開始一個人旅行。他到過印度和泰國,他沒有特定的方式看東西,只是胡亂冒險。然後他開始接待借宿客人,慢慢找到自己喜歡的旅行方式,他發覺,其實自己只需要一個背包的東西便足夠過日子了。

至於長途旅行,他打算到東方的國家,像柬埔寨、菲律賓、泰國、緬甸等,因為西方國家太昂貴了,他需要好好預算到底整個旅程會花費多少。他在印度已作了多次短途旅行,當開始長途旅行時會先把印度完成。對他來說,印度像一本未看完的小說,那是斯里蘭卡最近最大的土地,在哪裏他能夠遇到一些來自從沒聽說過國家的旅客,那將會是一個很好的地方去開始旅程和學習怎樣旅行。

斯里蘭卡是一個很小的國家,他已經差不多把每一個地方都遊覽過了。心裏那團火在燃燒,他很想出外看新的東西,現在他感到被困在一個小島國內,他想飛出去。他喜歡坐火車巴士多於飛機,因為過程遠比目的地重要。他喜歡與人接觸和看新奇的東西,在早上他才可以做到這些,在晚上的話只能睡覺了。坐巴士只有身旁的一兩個人可以交流,坐火車的話卻可以隨處走動與人交流,做甚麼都可以。他喜歡到一些未被破壞的郊區和沒有電話訊號的地方,喜愛迷路多於拿著地圖,然後再找回自己的路。

透過借宿網站他時常接待客人,提醒自己不要安頓於朝八晚五的工作,不要讓心中那團火熄滅,因為到處都是正在路上旅遊的人,他只要好好計劃一下就好了。透過接待客人,從他們身上了解這個世界,就算他從沒到過那些地方,卻學了很多東西。斯里蘭卡是一個小島國,透過旅客的眼睛卻讓他看見不同的東西,有空的時候他會和借宿客人外遊。現時為止他已接待過25個不同國家的客人,就像在吃一餐世界級自助餐。旅客有不同的經驗,有些才剛出門、有些時常借宿、有些是剛背包出遊,他們會一起坐下來互相分享彼此的文化和交換看法,對他來說這些都是很好的學習機會,為他的長途夢想之旅作準備和培訓。

旅行 是為了成長
Suresh較喜歡一個人旅行,因為他可以發現自己更多。他有耐性嗎?他會尊重別人嗎?他自大嗎?人們都有不同的看法,文化的政治的,當被別人挑釁時,他才會知道自己怎樣反應,妥協還是回應。他不會知道這些直至他遇上那些情況,尤其是別人都不認識他的,才會跟他說真心話,讓他思考事情正確與否。朋友只會說包裝過的說話,因為不想傷害他,也不會告訴他事實。

要旅程多久,他不會限制自己,也許當他覺得要回家,或是厭倦了旅館、火車旅行、看東西、時常收拾行裝、與人說你好再見等。

Suresh跟我分享了他最愛的座佑銘,「一切都好只要結果是好的」(All is well, that ends well),出自莎士比亞的著作。意思是只要結局是好的,過程中發生甚麼都是好事。所以現在他要好好堅持,好好儲備彈藥。

Suresh做訪問真是一個充滿啟發性的經驗,他是一個博學多才的人,有很多不同的見解,我們對旅行也有類似的看法。他跟我說原來religiousspiritual是不一樣的,我從來也沒想過這個分別。雖然他生於印度教的家庭,但卻不想標籤自己,因為他相信每個宗教都有好的東西可以學到,只看人們怎樣去理解箇中的內容和有否按著教義來生活。

最後他給我送了一把萬用刀作交換禮物,那是他第一把擁用的萬用刀,已經陪伴他五六個年頭了,也到過三個不同的國家。當他爬山或露營時候遇上緊急關頭,刀子常常幫得上忙。曾經他在爬山旅程中弄丟了,但卻決定往回走兩小時去把刀子尋回。他常常用刀子去開罐頭汽水之類,就像是紀念慶祝辛勞的完結。刀子還有一個簡單的人生理念,有那麼多不同用途的工具,就像人其實也很多元化,每個人都有他的用處的。他希望這把萬用刀可以幫助下一個追夢者,也能拿到他的能量。



8/6/2014
寫於印度邁索爾借宿主人在世外桃園的農莊





2014/06/09

流浪 就是為了解決難題

有一句說話
可以用錢解決的 就不是問題
換句話說
不用錢解決問題
就會有很多難題存在

不隨便用錢解決問題
除了幫我省下很多旅費外
還讓我多動腦筋
多想辦法
去解決每天在路上遇到大大小小各式各樣的難題

譬如說
A點到B
最簡單直接的方法
當然就是坐三輪的士
但是
原來我還可以自己想辦法
去找出巴士的路線
路在口邊
學習跟車長跟售票員跟乘客溝通
確保自己登上正確的巴士
再在正確的車站下車

當然
更多的時候
雖然省下了那丁點兒的錢
卻犧牲了很多寶貴的時間

因為
常常在言語不通的情況下
跟路人跟巴士司機跟售票員問路
最終
除了不肯定他們的答案到底可不可信
還會換來一肚子的氣

試過無數次
甲叫我到東邊
到東邊後乙又叫我到南面
到南面後丙又叫我到西面
到西面後丁又叫我到北面

又試過
明明我要坐X號巴士
等了二十分鐘後卻仍然沒有車
跟甲確認一下路線甲卻說X號巴士不對
叫我到遠方坐Y號巴士

走到遠方等Y號巴士
同樣等了二十分鐘仍然沒有車
跟乙確認一下
卻被告知那是一小時才開出一班的車
還叫我耐心等待

一小時過去了
仍然沒有車啊
然後丙說
為甚麼你不去等X號巴士呢
X號巴士每廿分鐘開出一班啊
!@#$%^&*

難題
永遠都不是那麼容易解決的

但是
我仍然樂於繼續用這種方式流浪

否則
我不會學會不要除便相信甲的話
起碼在同一個地方把乙和丙都問清楚才行動

還有
學會了好好控制自己的情緒
不要那麼容易動怒

因為
走錯路便走錯路吧
搭錯車便搭錯車吧

也許
我會因此看見不一樣的風景
遇見不一樣的有緣人

這樣
才算是流浪


 
Mysore, Karnataka, India - Jun 2014