2014/10/22

Ochivaye Dreams 14­­ – Dream of Helping the Village Children of a Tanzanian Volunteer Leader 夢想專訪14 –坦桑尼亞義工領袖的救助兒童夢

"Achieving dreams is never simple, one needs to give up other things to make a dream comes true"
"追夢永遠不是一件輕而易舉的事情,人們常常需要放棄一些東西才能夠夢想成真"

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Peter was my couchsurfing host in Moshi, Tanzania. He was very new in Couchsurfing and had only 1 reference on his profile. He mentioned that he is running a NGO which works with the village children. In Tanzania, there are a lot of NGOs bringing in foreign volunteers to help in different projects but at the same time charging a questionable high cost. However, the only reference on Peter’s profile described it was a very meaningful experience to work at the NGO and so I decided to stay with him and find out more about the project.

Dream, should not only be in the Mind
When Peter was a child, he had so many dreams. He wanted to be a priest, a doctor, a teacher, etc. When he was in secondary school, he made up his mind he wanted to be a priest so that he could go around and preach with people. However, an incident he encountered during his high school period changed his dream again.

During a long holiday in his high school period, Peter had a chance to do volunteer work with the Student Association. They got donations from parents and use them to buy gifts to the children in need. They went to the poor villages a few times and met some very poor children and distributed the gifts. Peter was surprised how worse the poverty situation the children were living in. When he went back to his village, he realized similar problem also existed in his village. There was no NGO in his village doing any intervention to the community either. From that time on, Peter decided to work in his own community in the future and help the children in need.

The Beginning is always the Hardest Part
It would not be a simple thing to do, for sure. Peter knew he needed to gain knowledge in the University first, and to register the project. He got very good grades in high school and was selected by the government to go to a good University in Dar, the capital of Tanzania, to study Political Science. However, Peter knew it wasn’t his ambition and he wanted to study something that would take him to achieve his dream in the future. He told his mom and brother his thought and got their understanding and support.    

Peter applied a 3 year degree program “Community Economic Development” in Moshi University at the end. He learnt about research, management, writing proposals, etc. While he was still doing his degree, he decided to start his project. He wrote the constitution and registered his project in district level. He started to look for an office and was accepted by a private school to temporary use their extra classroom to locate an office and to conduct programs.

Achieving dreams is never simple, one needs to give up other things to make a dream comes true. All his schoolmates looked for employment after graduation. He, however, decided to take risk and spend 2 years to build the foundation of the NGO, as a volunteer. His friends got employed and received income to take care of their families. He decided he won’t do so until he achieved his dream of helping the children in his village. He named his NGO Kilimanjaro Children Empowering Foundation (KICEF), aiming to help the children and community in need.

At first Peter asked his friends to help in his NGO but they were not so supportive as they also had to earn an income before promising anything. He then approached some teachers, some aunties and even his mom who already have their own income source so that they can volunteer and give support to the project. Finally there are 7 founding members and 5 board members in the whole team.

Path, was created by People
The first project Peter started with was called “Childpreneurship”, a word combined from “Children” and “Entrepreneurship”. He wanted to look for children in need but were at least 8 years old, and got recommendation by the primary school teachers and village leaders for over 100 children. However, Peter decided to start with little and slowly according to his time and resources. He chose 10 children who lived very near to his home as he can only visit them by foot or bike.

The project aimed to help the children to run income projects at home for extra food and school supplies. They teach them how to grow vegetables, keep chicken and sell eggs. He suggests they use one hour everyday after school, not more than that because they should maintain their regular attendance in school while working for the project. They also teach the children how to use water effectively, how to save money, do marketing with neighbors and to invite neighbors to come and buy their vegetables and eggs. 

This year January Peter started his second project “Quality Life for Children”, aiming to take in children who are seriously in need of support, like homeless orphans who have no parents and get no support from relatives, to reside in their children centre and to receive education. Now he has taken in 2 children but is only borrowing the hostel from the school. He needs to find a fix location for hostel, and to get more resources like food, clothes, schools and medical items.

He hosted the first gathering for the children and their families from both projects last Saturday, and to congratulate those who just graduated from Primary School this year to show that even orphans can succeed in school if they work hard.

Dream, is supported by Bread
The 2 years will be up at the end of this year after Peter’s graduation from University. All the while he was only doing small jobs to support his own expenses, like teaching part time, doing gardening at home and selling vegetables. Since last month he has started to send out job applications regarding community jobs. Of course if he has capital he would prefer to run a business so that he will have the freedom to continue supervising his projects. However, it is easier to find an employment than to do a business.

In the middle of Difficulty, lies Opportunity
KICEF is now 2 years old, but still there are a lot of things to be done to become sustainable in the long run. First it needs a permanent address to locate the office and hostel for the Children Centre. Peter just got a land from the village government and he will now need to write a proposal to get donations and sponsorship of resources to build the buildings. He will also need to get more people to work in the team. There is still a long way to go till everything becomes true.

One idea Peter has is to sell solar run radios in his NGO to the villagers. He has a radio ran by solar energy at home, a gift his mother received by the school she worked at. Peter never saw where they are sold on the street. However, it was made in China and may be I could help to find out where they are sold in China. Many people from his village have no power access at home and no access to news as a result. Batteries run radios need to buy disposable batteries which are expensive and cause pollution as well. If KICEF could get a sponsorship of the solar run radios, he could sell them to the villagers. The villagers can get access to the news and information and get empowered, at the same time, he can get an income to sustain his NGO projects. It is a win win situation.

Another difficulty KICEF faces is failing to get volunteers and visitors due to the long distance from Moshi town. His village Kahe is 22km away from town and needs at least 1 hour minibus ride. There is a well-known agent in Moshi which connects foreign volunteers and local NGOs. He tried asking for help before but the agent refused to put his NGO on their list because the village is too far away and the transportation fee of volunteers would be very expensive. Now Peter hopes Couchsurfing can bring in individual volunteers to help in his projects instead. However, Peter believes one good thing of getting individual volunteers instead is the volunteers do not need to pay the high cost the agent is charging and could use the money directly to buy resources for the community. His first couchsurfing guests were 3 girls from Germany and they helped to purchase materials like mattress, food, clothes, shoes, books to the children in need.

Think about the Source when Drinking Water
Peter shared his favorite moral with me. When a village always suffered with hunger, the villagers still gave out everything they had to a youngster to go far to look for more food for the village. If the youngster stayed in town by himself and didn’t go back to the village, it is called betrayal. It is a metaphor for the opportunity of receiving education. After finishing education, someone should go back to the community he grew up and use his knowledge there, not to stay in town and let the community suffers.

Peter gave me a pair of earrings as the present for exchange. He found this pair of earrings lying around in his files. He asked around but couldn’t find the owner. Peter believe the earrings are a good memory to remind oneself to pursue dreams as they don’t expire and can be kept very long. If the next interviewee is a girl, she can just keep them and wear them directly. If he is a guy, he can give them to his girlfriend or wife to strengthen the relationship when achieving the dream together.

Peter是我在坦桑尼亞Moshi鎮的沙發主人,不久前他才剛在借宿網站注冊,因此簡介內只有一位友人留言,他又提及自己正在營運一間非營利機構,為村落兒童服務。在坦桑尼亞,到處都有人開辦非營利機構安排外國義工到坦桑尼亞做義工服務,卻同時收取一筆高昂的行政費用。不過,Peter 簡介內的唯一留言卻提到那是一次難能可貴的經歷,於是我也決定要了解一下他的機構。

夢 不應只是想
跟很多小孩子一樣,Peter小時候已經有很多夢想,他想過當牧師、醫生、老師。當他唸中學時,發覺自己當牧師的興趣最大,又可以到處去傳道,但高中時候的一次經歷卻再次改變他的想法。

唸高中的時候,Peter有機會跟學生組織做義工服務,他們用家長的捐款來買禮物送給窮困村落有需要的小孩子。Peter對於農村貧困的情況感到很驚訝,當回到自己成長的村落後,卻發覺那裏原來也有類似的情況,同樣沒有任何社褔機構做介入工作,那個時候開始,Peter下定決心將來要在自己的社區工作,幫助有需要的小孩子。

萬事起頭難
Peter清楚知道,這個夢想並不是一件簡單的事情,他首先要上大學學習所需的知識,然後注冊他想營運的項目。由於高中成績優秀,Peter被政府挑選到首都唸大學主修政治科學,不過心裏卻知道那不是他要走的方向,他希望能修讀一些能幫助實踐理想的科目。跟媽媽和哥哥分享了自己的想法後,同樣得到他們的明白和支持。

最後,Peter在Moshi大學主修一個「社區經濟發展」的三年本科課程,學習做硏究、管理、寫計劃書。還在唸大學的時候,Peter決定正式開始他的項目,他寫好約章後在區內注冊機構,又找到一家私校願意借出課室予他當臨時辦公室和舉辦活動之用。

追夢永遠不是一件輕而易舉的事情,人們常常需要放棄一些東西才能夠夢想成真。大學同學畢業後都積極找工作,Peter卻決定要花兩年時間以義工身分去建立和穩固他營運機構的基礎。友人都找到工作有收入照顧家庭,他卻決定要先幫助村內小孩子,最後機構訂名為Kilimanjaro Children Empowering Foundation (KICEF),以幫助社區內有需要的小孩子為目標。

起初Peter叫身邊友人幫忙支持他的機構但他們卻沒有很熱心,因為很多人其實也需要先賺取收入才能答應幫忙其他事情。於是他嘗試接觸一些老師、阿姨,甚至他的媽媽,他們都有正職有收入可以以義工身分幫忙支援他的機構。最後Peter成功找到七名創辦成員和五名董事成員。

路 是人行出來的
機構第一個發展的項目叫 Childpreneurship,是「小孩」和「企業」兩個英文字合併而成的。Peter希望接觸八歲以上有需要的小孩子,於是叫小學老師和村內領袖幫忙推薦,最終收到過百名學生的資料。不過,Peter決定貴精不貴多,根據自己的時間和資源,他挑選了十名住在他家附近的小孩,因為他只可以以走路或騎自行車的方式去探訪他們。

這個項目是希望幫助小孩子在家中營運有收入的項目,以便可以購置額外的食物和文具。他們教小孩子怎樣種菜、養雞和賣雞蛋,又建議小孩每天放學後只用一個小時去管理這些項目,因為學生最終還是應該以上學讀書為上。他們也教小孩子怎樣珍惜水源、怎樣省錢,和怎樣邀請鄰居到自己家中買菜和雞蛋等。

今年一月Peter開始了第二個項目「小孩子的優質生活」,旨在收容嚴重需要支援,像沒有父母和沒有親屬照顧的小孩子到兒童中心住宿和接受教育。現在中心收容了兩位小孩,但由於暫時機構只是借用私校的宿舍,Peter需要尋找一個固定地點成立中心,以及獲取食物、衣服、文具和醫療用品等資源贊助。

上週六機構舉辦了一個大食會讓兩個項目的小孩和親友參與,也為數個剛小學畢業的小孩慶祝,證明就算是家境清貧的孤兒只要努力也可以在學業上獲取成功的。

追夢 還是需要麵包
今年底Peter已經大學畢業兩個年頭,意味他給自己的限期即將屆滿。兩年來Peter都是做兼職為生而已,像做助教、在家種菜和賣菜。上月起他開始發出有關社區工作的求職信,Peter笑說,若果有資金的話他當然希望能夠做生意,然後可以繼續自由自在地督導他的項目,不過,找工作永遠都是比做生意容易的。

是危 還是機
KICEF今年成立兩週年,但要持續發展的話仍然有很多進步空間。首先機構需要一個自己的辦公室和宿舍,村政府給了他們一塊土地,現在Peter需要寫計劃書找捐款和資源贊助興建大樓,另外他需要更多熱心人士加入他的團隊,KICEF前面還有很漫長的路要走。

Peter跟我分享了他的一個想法,是在機構銷售太陽能收音機給村民。他家中有一台太陽能收音機,是他媽媽在工作的學校收到的禮物,但他卻從來沒有在街上看過這類收音機銷售。由於那是中國製造的收音機,Peter想也許我可以幫忙找到它的廠商。很多村民家中沒有電力供應於是也無法接觸新聞資訊,電池運作的收音機需要購買費用高昂的電池,之後也會造成污染問題。若果機構可以找到廠商贊助太陽能收音機,可以賣給村民增加他們獲取新聞資訊的機會,同時也可以增加機構的收入營運項目,將會是一件雙贏的事情。

機構另一個困境是缺乏義工和訪客,由於距離市區太遠,離最近的小鎮也有22公里,需要足足一個小時的小巴車程才能抵達。在Moshi市區有一間著名的義工中介公司連繫外國義工到本地社福機構,Peter嘗試跟他們合作卻遭到拒絕,原因是他的機構太偏僻,若果安排義工到訪的話交通費用會非常高昂。現在他希望透過借宿網站接觸個別有興趣的義工到機構參觀或幫忙,其實,個別義工不需要經中介公司介紹還可以省卻一筆高昂的行政費用,義工更可以把金錢直接花在有需要的村民身上以購買各種資源和用品。Peter第一批借宿客人是三位來自德國的女生,她們抵埗後看見村民的需要便主動幫忙購置床舖用品、食物、衣服、鞋子、書本給有需要的家庭和小孩。

飲水 要思源
Peter跟我分享他的座右銘,當一條村莊時常鬧饑荒,村民仍然願意奉獻僅有的食糧讓年青人上路到其他地方幫忙找尋糧食回村落。若果年青人到達市區後卻不再返回農村,那就是忘本。這好比接受教育的機會,當完成高等教育後,人們應該回到自己成長的社區服務,用自己的知識幫助社區進步,不是獨自留在市區讓鄉村村民繼續活在困難之中。

Peter送給我一對耳環作交換禮物,他是在自己的文件堆中發現這對無人認領的耳環的。耳環不會到期,可以保存很久,很適合作為提醒自己去追夢的紀念品。若果下一位受訪者是女生,她可以自己佩帶;若果是男生,他應該把耳環送給女朋友或太太,然後一起追夢,更有助鞏固大家的關係。




2014/10/14

世間上一切美好的事物 都是免費的

有人問
山長水遠來到坦桑尼亞
不看野生動物不看土著表演不會覺得可惜嗎

可惜啊 但沒法子
若果世間上有些東西只要花錢就可以看到
代表世間上也有東西花了錢也未必體會到
我的旅程
就是要找尋那無價的東西

感謝沙發主人的帶領
來到鄉郊深處仍然保留傳統文化的部落
雖然
他們跟遊客區的土著不一樣
沒有把頭飾頸鏈耳環手鐲都通通穿戴在身上
也沒有婚禮慶典舞蹈表演給來賓欣賞
但我看見的
是更活生生的鄉土文化風俗人情

仍然以布疋遮蔽身體的傳統
仍然在腰間佩戴短劍的傳統
仍然以畜牧為生的傳統
仍然手持權杖代表男權的傳統

也許
遊客區的土著以賣藝為生
但花錢消費換來的
就是各式各樣客套的說話
和為了成交生意的笑容

能夠和真正的部落土著合照
有機會體會他們的待客之道
是我的榮幸
我可以留下的
是對他們傳統文化的尊重
和實現我對他們的承諾
把所有照片沖印出來
郵寄給他們當作紀念

感恩
世間上仍有保留傳統的文化
感動
世間上仍然存在美好的事物

Maasai Village, Moshi, Tanzania - Oct 2014

2014/09/28

A Letter to my Tanzanian Host 給坦桑尼亞借宿主人的一封信

Dear Couchsurfing Host,

How are you!

It’s almost a month since I arrived Tanzania. I am so glad I could stay at your place to learn and experience more about your culture. I have a lot of reflections regarding the world and lives since then. It is my first time ever to visit Africa, the real Africa which belongs to the Black. People’s common perceptions of Africa are poverty, hunger, wars, backward, and of course nature and wildlife. I always believe everything has many sides. To me, because I don’t know, I wanted to visit here by my own feet, see this place by my own eyes, and listen to your stories by my own heart.

I always believe things are not only black and white, right or wrong that simple and straightforward. I saw a lot from your lives, and I also hope my visit brings you a bit of inspirations and reflections. I want to tell you how things in Tanzania hit my values, hope we can share our views to increase exchange and growth of our lives.

When the flight landed at DAR airport, when I went through the immigration successfully, when I passed the crowds and arrived at the immigration hall with my luggage, I was glad you came to me immediately. You decided not to go to work and came all the way to pick me up. You said, to avoid the crowd and jam on the bus, you arrived early, you waited 3 hours at the airport just to meet me. You saw me with big and small bags, and insisted to help me to carry one. Luckily with you around, I didn’t get lost in the whole new country. We crossed the road, reached a bus stop and waited there for our bus home. I was so curious about your country, I saw people in colorful clothes, small shops with different telecom company signboards, and dusty roads. These were my first impressions of Tanzania. Finally, we spent 3 hours, changed 2 buses and got jam on the road, and reached your home at the outskirt of the city.

Your neighbors greeted you when they saw you. The kids were playing around, a boy was kicking a ball made of an inflated plastic bag, women were washing dishes and clothes in front of the houses, old people were sitting outside chitchatting. I said, I haven’t seen this for long, every family seemed to be so close, taking care of each other. My region is different, everyone lives in high-rise buildings, everything is about security, every home is secured by thick doors and locks. We don’t even know who our neighbors are, even when we meet and we greet there is nothing else to talk about.

I told you, I chose couchsurfing than guesthouse as I prefer cultural exchange. There is a well in front of your house, you said everyday you take water there for drinking and cleaning purpose. You drink directly without boiling it first. I said, in India I tried drinking well water directly too, and I didn’t get sick. However, as I just arrived your country, I worried my body wasn’t adjusted yet and I would rather be careful. Then I started doing an experiment. I looked carefully with my eyes, smelled carefully with my nose, made sure there were not any sediments or weird smell. I tried a little bit, the taste was normal and so I drank the whole glass. I joked, if I didn’t fall sick the next day then I can continue drinking well water in Tanzania. You know you are very fortunate because you can drink directly from the well, it means your water hasn’t been contaminated yet. You know in my region there is no well water available for direct drinking. We need to buy water from the Mainland, after repeated distillations and sterilizations then it reaches people’s home. However, we still need to re-distillate and boil before drinking. In comparison, your water is more natural and healthy.

You said, to welcome my arrival you would get a living rooster for me. I thought you were joking, but you really brought one back after a while. You even joked that I should be in charge of killing, so I answered I rather not eating it. Staying at your place you treated me like a VIP, served me chicken, beef, fish, seafood, every meal was always well prepared. I said, I don’t want to be a guest, treat me like a family member and let me help you with the housework. You refused, you said I am the guest and it is your hospitality tradition. I said, Chinese does the same to our guests too, and I am not staying only for a few days, I am staying for a long period. So I used my limited cooking knowledge to cook you some Chinese dishes. Chinese fries, tomatoes and eggs, steamed fish, Coca-cola Chicken, and sweet potato dessert soup. I could only make these and I was not sure if you were telling the truth or not, you always said my dishes tasted good. To thank you for your hospitality, I wrote you some Chinese words to decorate your home and shop too. You probably didn’t know, my Chinese handwriting was very ugly.

You taught me how to speak Swahili, other than “Jambo” and “Karibu”, another one I learnt from you was “po le po le”, you said it is the way Africans do things, do everything slowly. I loved it so much because I do everything slowly since young, eat slowly, walk slowly, talk slowly, think slowly, learn slowly, and now travel slowly. However the personality has made me feel I was so different from the others. When I was a kid my mom always said how could eat so slowly, like an old woman. In school I always didn’t figure out what the teachers were saying and then they would have started the next chapter. You said, when you work with Westerners they always prefer “now”, while locals prefer “later”. Yes in my region, everything is about speed and efficiency. I think “later” is actually a good concept, as my patience is getting worse too.
    
One day, you took out 2 packs of instant noodles. You said they were made in Indonesia and are getting popular here. They taste so good and only take a short while to cook. You asked if I have ever tried. I said of course, they are so delicious and easy to cook, I loved them so much when I was a kid. However, I don’t eat them anymore because their ingredients are very unhealthy. Deeply fried and stabilizers added, with unknown alphabets and numbers ingredients on the MSG pack too. There was a news from the foreign country someone died after eating instant noodle continuously for a week. There was also an experiment in Taiwan the noodle couldn’t be digested at all even after eating for 6 hours.

We walked around in a small village, I saw a woman carrying a small bottle to buy cooking oil. The staff poured in it from a big jar. I said it is so environmental friendly as it extends every plastic bottles’ life. You said the shop normally buy big jar of cooking oil, and the village people normally don’t need such a big jar at home and they also don’t have extra money to buy extra food.

We arrived a family run shop, a woman was making homemade bun for selling. After talking for a while she took one and wrapped it in newspaper and gave it to me for free. I recalled the scene when I was a kid. Everytime at home when my dad put the food on the newspaper directly, I shouted to him it was not hygienic, and I would not eat the food which touched the newspaper. I even “taught” my dad to use paper towel instead of newspaper, as I believed the ink would contaminate the food. Now I felt I was so naive. People from the big city used the so-called sterilized paper towels, paper bags, plastic bags to carry the food. Does it mean the food is then safe and hygienic for eating? Many reports showed that the bacteria levels of the sterilized things are over the standard level, and even have chemicals left behind. Wouldn’t they also make the food unhygienic after touching?

I told you, I like the street food a lot because they are freshly made and tasted great. In my region, everything needs license to proof they are safe and hygienic. No shops is allowed to sell food without license. Many food are made in the factory and pre-packed. You said there was a supermarket closed down recently because things were too expensive. I said it was a good news. In my region, it is the other way around, supermarkets are everywhere, small shops can’t compete with the big companies with low prices and ending up closing down.

I asked you if there were any big franchises with free wifi in the downtown. You said there are still not too many people using internet. The majority is still using the old type of mobile phones as it is luxurious to use smart phone. People normally top up the pre-paid card for data use and that’s why no place provided free wifi. I said, it is a good thing too. It is not good to use internet too much either. In my region, everywhere has free wifi and everyone is looking at their phones only, seems like they would disconnect from the world if they don’t get online. Some teenagers even got internet addictions nowadays.

You told me, the first fast food shop just opened in the capital 2 years back. The idea of fast food is still very new and people feel it is a luxurious place with nice decorations and air con. It is true too as the fast food price is not cheap either. I said, I don’t visit fast food restaurants anymore because the food are very unhealthy with high calories, high salt and high sugar. In my region there are too many fast food restaurants and many kids are obese now. Another thing is they encourage the use of disposable utensils which waste too many resources and create too much rubbish.

We came to a market, I saw there were plastic bags everywhere on the floor. You bought eggs, bread and vegetables with different plastic bags. I said let’s not use plastic bags because I have shopping bags. You laughed and you said they were free of charge. If the plastic bags become useless after bringing home, if they would only be thrown to the bins, why create rubbish? In my region we don’t encourage the use of plastic bags anymore, we found out the harm they cause to the environment and many shops even charge extra for each plastic bag used.

At home, I noticed the way you deal with rubbish was to throw away at the river. I saw there were rubbish along the whole river dumped by the villagers who live nearby. You said, it is the dry season now so the rubbish got stuck there. When the rain comes, the river will bring the rubbish to the sea. I responded with an “orr” sound because I knew the problem was not from you or the villagers. May be it was the government who didn’t do a good job in collecting trash. However, in my region, even though there is trash collection, the result of the rubbish is also the same. The only difference is we don’t see their existence everywhere. May be they are sent to the dumping area, the fire incinerator, or somewhere in the sea, only we don’t see them. Burning pollutes the air, burying creates toxins which contaminate the underground water and the sea lives. The long term consequence of rubbish is the same for you and me.

I really don’t know if there is only one formula in development. In your eyes big cities may be meaning fast forward and advance, everyone in your country wants to leave poverty behind. But I also want to share with you, what you are owning now are also very invaluable to people like me who grew up in the cities. When developing economically please also treasure your beautiful resources, the well water you can drink directly, caring neighbors you can trust heartfully, and the sacred nature and the wildlife. I really don’t want to see all your invaluable resources became like my region, the animals extinct one by one, and only high rise buildings, isolated neighbors and pollutions left.

Thank you again for letting me be a part of your family, my beloved Tanzanian family.

Cheers,
Odia
27/09/2014


P.S. The contents were my experiences and inspirations in the past one month in Tanzania, of course I had more than one host family. I was only combining all the stories into one! Haha~~

親愛的沙發主人:

你好!

來到坦桑尼亞將近一個月時間,有幸借宿在你的家中,讓我有機會更快更深入體驗了解你的文化,讓我對世界對生命有更多的反思。這是我生平第一次踏上非洲的土地,那真真正正屬於黑人種族的非洲。人們對非洲的普遍認知都是貧窮、饑餓、戰亂、落後,當然還有大草原和野生動物。我相信凡事都有許多不同層面,於我而言,就是因為不認識,所以才更希望有機會用雙腳去踏足這片土地,用雙眼去看這個地方,用心靈去聆聽你的故事。

從來相信,世上有許多許多的事情,並不是只有黑和白、對與錯那麼簡單直接。我在你的生活看見了許多,也同樣希望,我的來訪也給你帶來了一點點啟發和體會。我希望能告訴你坦桑尼亞的種種對我生命的衝擊,希望大家能互相分享看法,增加生命的交流與成長。

當航班抵達坦桑尼亞首都機場,當我成功過關入境,當我提著行李越過人流來到接機大堂,感恩你立即走上前來跟我相認。你決定當天不上班遠道而來機場接待我,你說,為了避免巴士擠逼塞車,你還提早了抵達,在機場足足呆等了三個小時。你看見我大包小包的,還堅持幫忙提取行李,幸好有你,我才不至於在一個全新的國度迷失。我們越過馬路,來到一個公車站一起等巴士回家。我對你的國家充滿好奇,穿著色彩繽紛衣裳的人們、掛著電訊公司品牌的小店,還有,沙塵滾滾的馬路,這是我對坦桑尼亞的第一印象。最後,我們足足用了三個小時,換了兩程巴士,塞了很久的車,終於抵達你那位於市區郊外的家。

鄰居看見你的經過都寒暄幾句,村內小孩子圍在一起玩耍,有男孩子更拿著一個吹脹了的塑膠袋當足球踢,有婦女在門外洗碗洗衣服,有老人坐在屋子外空地乘涼,大家有說有笑的。我說,很久沒有看見這種畫面了,每家每戶的鄰里關係密切,互相照應。我們地區可不一樣了,大家都住在高樓大廈,甚麼都說要保安,每人家中都大門深鎖,連鄰居姓甚名誰也不知道,就算碰面打招呼後其實也再
沒有別的話題了。

我跟你說,我旅行選擇借宿而不住旅店,最重要的原因是文化交流,我希望能體驗你們的生活習慣。你家中旁邊就有一口井,你說每天都在井中提水作煮食洗滌之用,你們都是直接飲用井水,也沒有煮沸的習慣的。我說,在印度我也試過直接飲用井水,肚子也沒有不舒服。不過,今次剛剛來到你的國家,我怕身子還沒有適應,所以我還是會很小心飲食。然後,我像化驗井水一樣,用眼睛看用鼻子嗅,確保井水沒有沉澱物和異味。我淺嚐了一點點,味道好像也沒有怪味便放心喝下一整杯。我還笑說,若果明天都沒有肚子痛我便可以繼續在坦桑尼亞飲用井水了。其實,你們很幸福,可以直接提取井水享用,那代表你的國家地下水還沒有受污染。我的地區卻不行了,已經沒有井水可以直接飲用了,淡水都必須向大陸購買,經過重重的過濾和消毒才來到人們的家中,然後,大家還要把水再過濾再煮沸才放心享用,相比之下,你的水真的天然健康多了。

你說,為了歡迎我的到來,會為我買一頭活雞回來。我以為你只是說笑,想不到一會兒後你真的提著一隻活雞回來,還笑說我要自己殺雞,我只好回答那我寧願不吃了。在你家借宿,你對我如上賓一樣,每餐大魚大肉的,又雞又牛又魚又海鮮,常常早午晚三餐為我準備好。我說,我不想當客人,請把我當家裏人,讓我做點家頭細務好嗎?你卻說不行,因為我是客人,這是你的待客之道。我說,華人對於賓客也是如此的,不過,我可不是只待三數天,我是逗留一段長時間啊!於是,我用有限的烹調技術嘗試給你煮中菜,土豆絲蕃茄蛋蒸魚可樂雞蕃薯糖水,我只會弄這些,不知真的假的,每次你總說好吃。為了報答你的好客熱情款待,我又給你寫揮春佈置家居和商店,可能你不知道,其實我的中文字寫得很爛很醜的。

你教我怎麼說非洲語,除了「你好」和「歡迎」之外,另一句我在你身上學會的口頭禪便是「慢慢來」,你說這是你們非洲人的處事習慣,凡事慢慢來!我超級喜歡的,從小到大我就是一個甚麼都愛慢慢來的人。慢慢吃飯、慢慢走路、慢慢說話、慢慢思考、慢慢學習,現正慢慢旅行!可是這種性格,卻令我覺得自己和別人格格不入,小時候我媽就常說我吃飯怎麼可以可麼慢,像個老太婆一樣!在學校學習我常常還沒有弄明白老師在說甚麼就已經跳到下一章節了。你說,你和西方人共事,最明顯的分別就是他們總要求「現在」,但本地人卻習慣「稍後」啊!真的,在我的地區,甚麼事情都講求快速和效率,也許,稍後也是一個不錯的概念,因為我也發覺自己的耐性越來越差了。

有一天,你從食物櫃拿了兩包方便面出來,你說它們是印尼生產的,現在很流行,味道很棒又不用煮很久,數分鐘便能享用,你問我吃過沒有。我說,有啊,方便面味道很可口,烹調也很方便,我小時候超級愛吃的。但是,近年來我已經不再吃它了,因為它的成份很不健康,又油炸又穩定劑,還有那充滿各種英文字母和數字代碼成份的味精包,外國新聞便曾經報導有人連續吃方便面一星期然後死了,台灣也有實驗證實方便面吃下肚子後原來六個小時後還是不會消化的。

我們到小村落閒逛,看見有婦人帶著小瓶子去買食油,店員把食油從大瓶徐徐倒入小瓶,我說,這做法真環保啊,可以延長每個塑膠瓶子的壽命。你說,商店都採購大瓶裝的食油,但居民通常沒有需要買大瓶裝存放在家中,另一個原因,是因為人們手上沒有那麼多的餘錢去買過多的食糧。

然後,我們來到一間民居小店,看見婦人自己製作油炸小饅頭,閒聊一番後她更用報紙直接包起一個饅頭贈送給我吃,讓我回想起小時候的情景。每當在家中爸爸把食物直接放到報紙上面,我都會立即大叫那很不衛生,然後絕對不吃那觸碰過報紙的食物。我還會「教育」爸爸,下次可以用餐巾代替報紙嗎,因為油墨都會印到食物上面啊!現在回想起來都覺得自己很可笑,城市人用所謂的已消毒過的紙巾紙袋膠袋盛載食物是否就代表一定安全衛生呢?很多報告證實那些用品的細菌其實也超標的,還有殘留化學品,沾到食物後不同樣也是不衛生嗎?

我告訴你,我很喜歡這些民間小食的,因為它們即場製作新鮮好吃。在我的地區,甚麼東西都要申領牌照,沒有牌照的小店便不能出售食物。於是,為了證明食物是安全衛生,結果店舖只售賣預先包裝好的食品。你說近日首都有間超級市場倒閉了,因為東西太貴沒有人光顧。我說,這真是一個好消息啊!因為在我們地區,這是相反的事情,超級市場越開越多,小商店不及大財團競爭,貨物不夠低廉,越來越多小商戶倒閉結業了。

我問你,在首都市中心有沒有一些大型快餐連鎖店可以免費無線上網呢?你說,這裏還沒有很多人上網,大部分人還是用舊式手機,擁有智能電話已經很奢侈了。上網亦只會用電話卡增值,所以你們沒有地方提供免費無線上網的。我說,那也是一件好事啊,上太多網其實不太好,就像我的地區,到處都有無線上網,大家每一分每一秒都低頭看電話,好像不上網會和世界斷絕連繫一樣,有年青人更因此上網成癮呢!

你跟我說,第一家快餐連鎖店兩年前才在首都登陸,快餐的概念還很新穎,人們總覺得裝潢華麗有空調的地方都是很高尚的,而事實上快餐店的食品價格亦真的不是人人能夠負擔得起。我說,我現在都不光顧快餐店了,因為快餐其實很不健康,高熱量高鹽份高糖份,我們地區就是因為到處都是快餐店而很多小孩子癡肥了,還有就是即棄用品的觀念浪費太多資源製造太多垃圾了。

我們來到街市,看見地下四周都是破舊的塑膠袋,然後,你買雞蛋買面包買蔬菜各用上一個塑膠袋,我說,不如不要膠袋好嗎,我有購物袋。你笑了,你說那不要錢的。但是,既然拿回家後膠袋也是沒有其他用處,既然之後也是丟掉,為甚麼要製造垃圾呢?我們地區現在都主張不用膠袋了,因為知道了它對環境的禍害,很多商舖更會另外收取膠袋費用呢!

回到家中,我看見你處理垃圾的方法就是拿到河邊丟掉,我看到整條河流都是附近居民丟掉的垃圾,大包小包的。你說,現在是旱季,垃圾才會堆積在這裏,當雨季來臨時,河流都會把它們帶到大海裏去了。我「哦」了一聲作回應,因為我知道,問題不在你和村民身上。也許,是因為政府沒有做好垃圾收集工作,但我們地區,就算有垃圾收集,垃圾的下場其實不也是一樣嗎?只是眼不見為乾淨了,也許垃圾給送到了堆田區,也許是焚化爐,也許是海洋深處,只是我們看不見垃圾的下場罷了。但燃燒的灰燼污染空氣,埋藏在地底則分解有毒物質污染地下水源,甚至影響海洋生態,垃圾對我們的長遠影響其實都是一樣的。

我不知道,每一個地方的發展是不是都會經歷同一條方程式。也許,在你們眼中,大城市都等同於先進發展迅速,人們都希望國家能夠快快走出貧窮落後的面貌。但我亦想告訴你,你們現在擁有的對於大城市長大的我們來說同樣是非常難能可貴。在發展經濟的同時,希望你們也好好珍惜所有美好的資源,可直接飲用的井水、互相照應的鄰里關係,還有那稀有的大草原和野生動物。我不希望有一天,你們所擁有的珍貴資源,變成和我的地區一樣,野生動物一隻一隻絕種,最後只剩下高樓大廈、冷漠的鄰里關係和各式各樣的污染。

再次感謝你讓我成為家庭的一份子,我親愛的坦桑尼亞家人!

Odia上
26/09/2014

P.S. 文章內容是過去一個月在坦桑尼亞的體驗有感而發的,我的借宿家庭當然不只一戶啊,是把好幾個家庭的經歷合而為一的,呵呵! 

Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania - Sep 2014